Mastery of Design: An Ivory and Diamond Ring, 1750-1800

Ivory and Diamond Ring
Gold, Crystal, Diamonds, Ivory and, possibly, shell.
1750-1800
Possibly German.
The Victoria & Albert Museum

In the late Eighteenth Century, ivory was prized as an exotic and valuable medium. Ivory found its way into a variety of uses from household items to jewelry. Due to its durability and its ability to be carved into delicate and intricate patterns, ivory was a highly desirable material.


This ring by an unknown maker probably comes from Germany between 1750 and 1800. German jewelers were known for their fine ivory carvings and rings such as this were often imported into Britain. Housed behind a crystal dome, an ivory carving shows an intricate pastoral scene. Ethereal in its frame of diamonds, the piece has been set in gold.

For a ring like this to survive this long is quite remarkable. Very often, the crystal was broken from daily wear. This example is in exquisite condition.

Mastery of Design: Queen Elizabeth II’s Ruby and Diamond Necklace, 1964

Ruby and Diamond Necklace
English, 1964
The Royal Collection

Before being given to Her Majesty, the Queen, in 1964, this exquisite necklace of flat-cut rubies and brilliant-cut diamond clusters was actually a simple necklace, separate pendant and pair of earrings from the famed Baring Collection of jewels. The earrings and pendant were adapted into the design of the necklace in 1964.


One of several pieces of rubies and diamonds owned by the Queen, this is, by far, one of the most extravagant. Still worn by Her Majesty, this necklace is one of the few pieces in regular rotation in her wardrobe.

Mastery of Design: A Platinum and Diamond Commemorative Brooch, 1937

"Thunderbolt" Diamond Brooch, 1937
Platinum set with Diamonds
England
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The combination of diamonds and platinum defined the look of the jewelry of the 1930’s. Designers created elegant pieces which not only served as ornaments, but lasting reminders of important events.


This platinum and diamond brooch from 1937 was created to commemorate the breaking of the World Land Speed Record by Captain George Eyston in 1937. Beneath rolling clouds, we see Eyston’s car, Thunderbolt, which Captain Eyston designed, built and drove himself. Powered by two aero engines made by the firm of Rolls-Royce, the car was celebrated not only for its speed, but its beauty.

As a token of their appreciation for the good press from this event, Rolls Royce presented this stunning brooch to Captain Eyston’s wife. It’s mighty nifty. Who says driving fast won’t win you anything?

Mastery of Design: A Diamond Snuff Box, 1770

Table Snuff Box, 1770
German
Bloodstone, gold, diamonds
The Royal Collection

Over three thousand diamonds backed in silver, pink and yellow foil adorn this bloodstone snuff box. German in origin, the box was made for Frederick II of Prussia who had a collection of over three hundred snuff boxes.


Heralded for its magnificent use of gold mounts and the clarity of its diamonds, the box was considered one of the great treasures of Prussia. In 1917, it was seized by Soviet authorities and, as these things often did, somehow ended up in the hands of Mary of Teck.

Mastery of Design: A Pendant with Tassie Cameos of George III and Charlotte, 1780 (Reposted from May 12, 2011)

This delicate pendant gold, enamel, glass cameo and pearls bears the likenesses of King George III and Queen Charlotte. The cameos are referred to as “Tassie Cameos” because they are made in the style of William Tassie who perfected a means of crafting sparkling silhouettes in glass of famous people.

Pendant with Tassie Cameos
of King George III and
Queen Charlotte
1780
The Royal Collection

The pendant, created in 1780, was given by King George III and Queen Charlotte to the Honorable Georgiana Townsend, daughter of the 1st Viscount Sydney—the Leader of the House of Commons who was largely responsible for reaching terms of peace with the United States in 1783 following the American Revolution. It was interesting the Sydney was so instrumental in smoothing things over with the Colonies considering that the whole kerfuffle started with the Stamp Act of 1765—an act passed by Sydney’s cousin, Charles Townsend.

Georgiana had spent most of her life in the favor of the Royal Court and was a favorite of Queen Charlotte. Later in her life, Georgiana was appointed to the sinecure of State Housekeeper at Windsor, a position she held until the end of her life. She lived in the Norman Tower at Windsor Castle until her death.

In 1915, most of the items in the Sydney collection were auctioned off. Mary of Teck purchased this pendant at that auction as part of her quest to return as many Royal objects as possible to the Royal Collection.

Mastery of Design: The Fabergé Mosaic Egg, 1914

Imperial Easter Egg
Mosaic of gold, platinum, enamel, rose and brilliant diamonds,
rubies, emeralds, topaz, quartz, sapphires, garnets, moonstone
1914 Fabergé
Designed by Alma Theresia Pihl
Purchased for Queen Mary, 1933
The Royal Collection

Commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II for Tsarina Alexandra Feodorovna, this remarkable, three-dimensional mosaic of gold, platinum, enamel, rose and brilliant diamonds, rubies, emeralds, topaz, quartz, sapphires, garnets, moonstone was confiscated by the provisional Russian government in 1917. After being sold, it passed through several sets of hands before being purchased by King George V as a gift for his wife, Mary of Teck.


This imperial Easter egg features five oval medallions filled with a repeating design of miniature flowers. The intricate design was by Alma Theresia Pihl, the granddaughter of August Holmström, Fabergé's principal jeweler. By 1914, August Holmström had retired and his workshop was taken over by his nephew Albert Holmström who acted as the work-master responsible for the production of this egg.

The skill needed to produce this complicated design is almost unfathomable. Each gemstone had to be precisely cut to fit into its proper place in the platinum framework which supports the piece. The dimensions of each stone had to be carefully calculated in advance.

This egg, like the other Imperial Easter Eggs, bears a hidden “surprise” inside of it. When opened, an enamel medallion surmounted by the imperial crown is held in place by two gold clips. One side of the medallion features the profiles of the five imperial children while the reverse shows their names and the dates of their births. An added surprise is the initials of the Tsarina beneath the moonstone at the base of the egg.

Perhaps one of the most difficult of designs produced by The House of Fabergé, the egg was dedicated to Fabergé’s father, Gustav whose initials are included on the reverse of the medallion.