Unusual Artifacts: “The New Panthom” Bustle, 1884

The New Phantom
Steel Wires and Cotton Tapes
English, 1884
The Victoria & Albert Museum

In the 1860’s, as the bell-shaped skirt fell out of fashion, a lady began to drape the excess fabric of her crinolines around her hips so that they would bunch up behind her, making a different silhouette.

This fashion gave rise to the bustle. The word “bustle” was considered vulgar to Victorian ladies who referred to the new contraptions that they would wear under their gowns as “tournures” or “dress improvers.” At first, the tournure served to gather the crinoline and excess fabric of existing dresses. Soon, however, it became a separate piece of clothing, worn under a dress and fastened with a series of uncomfortable belts and straps. Bustles could be constructed of a variety of materials which served to pad the back of a dress—horse hair, down, straw and padding—taking the form of little cushions.

Victoria & Albert Museum

By the 1870’s the tournure was constructed by steel and took the form of a cage which could be adapted into the necessary shape. This mode, called “The New Phantom,” rose in prominence in the 1880’s. New technology allowed for the cage to collapse when a lady sat down and expand when she rose and was considered infinitely more comfortable than the cumbersome cushions of the past.

For the Queen’s 1887 Golden Jubilee, a variation of this tournure was made as a special novelty. When a woman rose, a mechanism would release, causing a music box to play “God Save the Queen.” The phenomenon was short-lived.

The Victoria & Albert Museum





Buenos Aires Fashion Week

The first Buenos Aires Fashion Week was held in March 2011 in association with IMG Fashion and Mercedes Benz. The Buenos Aires city government want to showcase local talent and establish itself as a major fashion player.

Designers included:

Marcelo Senra - an Argentinean native known for her ethnic and tribal designs who also showed at Mercedes Benz
Fashion Week in New York.

Daniela Sartori - a graduate of the University of Buenos Aires,
she works with organic material and specialises in tailoring.
Her clothes are unisex.

Min Agostini - studied architecture at University and uses features of that in her designs. She is known for designing short skirts with lots of volume, dresses and urban coats. She also showed at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York.

Fabian Zitta - a former doctor who studied design at the University of Buenos Aires. He is inspired by Art Deco and his collections have many layers.

Marina Dappiano - works a lot with wool and her inspirations include pictures her daughter scribbled on the walls of the house!

Mariano Toledo - an Argentinean Designer who works on Latin America Project Runway. His collection included leather goods and jackets that are typical of his design. He appreciates a masculine style that highlights femininity with personality; mixing skirts, ties and transparent trousers.











The next Buenos Aires Fashion Week will be held later in the year as the city uses it as a platform to celebrate Argentinian fashion and improve its contribution to industry and the economy.

Ten Sandals under £100

Because it's summer and we're thinking about going on holiday. And sometimes, heels make our feet hurt.

£70

£75

£50

£35

£40

Was £275, now £96.25

Was £65, now £45

£59.90

Was £89, now £44

£95

Pick of the Week: Brights

Inspired by this colourful look in Harpers Bazaar magazine, we bought this lovely Miss Selfridge lemon pussy bow blouse that looks great over skinny jeans or leggings or tucked into a midi skirt. Extra points for the longer length at the back for those of us who want to cover up our derriere. And it’s only £35!

J. Crew Fall 2011 Lookbook: The Look for Less

Hi, everyone!

Happy Thursday! :D

I planned to do this post several weeks ago when I saw the J. Crew Fall 2011 Lookbook on FabSugar.com. I just recently had some time to actually work on this post. So, yay! :D

On the FabSugar article/slideshow, they showed the items that are worth splurging on and the ones that aren't. Here are some items that they think are not worth breaking the bank for. I also went on Forever 21's website (I haven't been on there since, well, forever!), and I found affordable items to re-create these looks from J. Crew. :)

As much as I love that cute disco mini, $350 is way too pricey for me. And with $158, I'm pretty sure I can buy a lot of striped shirts from other stores.

C'est Le top ($12.90), Beaded Mini Skirt ($29.99), Crinkled Woven Scarf ($9.80), Sequined Clutch ($15.80)

That trenchlet is cute, but according to FabSugar, you won't get a lot of outfits from it because the design and pattern will easily go out of style. Those shorts are really pretty, but I've seen look-alikes sold for way less at other stores.



Short Double Breasted Trench ($32.80), My Boyfriend's Cotton Shirt ($19.90), Wingtip Ankle Boots ($26.80), Perfect Pleats Woven Shorts ($22.80)

I like the idea of a leather tee, but honestly, how many times are we gonna wear one? And for $795?! No, thank you, I think I'll pass.

Silk Blend Button Up ($24.80), Oversized Knit Top ($7.90), Workman Lace-Up Booties ($27.80), Divine Rights of Denim Civilian Skinnies ($24.80)





Again, the price... $750 for a maxi dress?! I think if you have $750 to spare, it's better to spend it on more affordable maxi dresses -- I think $750 worth of maxi dresses will last us for two, or maybe three, summers. Or better yet, let's just spend it on Louboutins? ;)

Rows of Flowers Dress ($22.80) and Strappy Leatherette Sandals ($9.50)

I like the look of those shoes on the J. Crew outfit, but I don't know if I can pull it off. If like me, you're unsure on that, you can never go wrong with sandals. :)

Once again, I am going off on the price... I think you can find more versatile LBDs out there, and for way less than $875. I am really loving those sandals, though. :)



Woven Dress with Belt ($27.80) and Studded Leatherette Gladiator Sandals ($19.80)

I think I have to spend some quality time at Forever 21 so I can find pieces to put these five looks together. :D

Which of these looks did you like the best?

P.S. Guess what came in the mail today... I got the People magazine issue covering all things Royal Wedding. I'm hoping to find some time to scan them for you guys. ;)

Yay for Friday! Hang in there, guys! :D