Unusual Artifacts: “The New Panthom” Bustle, 1884

The New Phantom
Steel Wires and Cotton Tapes
English, 1884
The Victoria & Albert Museum

In the 1860’s, as the bell-shaped skirt fell out of fashion, a lady began to drape the excess fabric of her crinolines around her hips so that they would bunch up behind her, making a different silhouette.

This fashion gave rise to the bustle. The word “bustle” was considered vulgar to Victorian ladies who referred to the new contraptions that they would wear under their gowns as “tournures” or “dress improvers.” At first, the tournure served to gather the crinoline and excess fabric of existing dresses. Soon, however, it became a separate piece of clothing, worn under a dress and fastened with a series of uncomfortable belts and straps. Bustles could be constructed of a variety of materials which served to pad the back of a dress—horse hair, down, straw and padding—taking the form of little cushions.

Victoria & Albert Museum

By the 1870’s the tournure was constructed by steel and took the form of a cage which could be adapted into the necessary shape. This mode, called “The New Phantom,” rose in prominence in the 1880’s. New technology allowed for the cage to collapse when a lady sat down and expand when she rose and was considered infinitely more comfortable than the cumbersome cushions of the past.

For the Queen’s 1887 Golden Jubilee, a variation of this tournure was made as a special novelty. When a woman rose, a mechanism would release, causing a music box to play “God Save the Queen.” The phenomenon was short-lived.

The Victoria & Albert Museum





Unusual Artifacts: The Prince Regent’s Sabretache, 1818

Sabretache
Thomas Cuff, 1818
Baize, leather, silk, silver and gold
The Royal Collection

Though King George III forbid his son, the Prince of Wales (later The Prince Regent, later King George IV) from actually participating in any military activities in which he’d be called upon to carry a weapon, the Prince was quite interested in the military and was thrilled and proud to be appointed Colonel Commandant of the Tenth Light Dragoons.


The Prince channeled his interest in the military into a passion for collecting uniforms and military accoutrements. He also made sure to have a hand in the design of uniforms for various military organizations.

This unusual Sabretache shows the Prince’s influence in design as was most likely made for the Prince to wear on ceremonial occasions. A sabretache is a decorative pocket or pouch (usually of leather) which is designed to be worn from a military officers belt. This ornate sabretache incorporates velvet and silver and gilt thread and was clearly never meant to be worn in battle.